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WHERE : Dining

April in Paris may be celebrated in the famous George Gershwin song but january is a wonderful time to visit the city for anyone who really loves to eat. Many of the classics of the French kitchen make for delectable winter eating, notably France's superb oysters and gigot d'agneau or roast leg of lamb. lf this sounds like your kind of meal, head for Sébillon, a charming long-runnig well-mannered brasserie that's a favourite with a business power crowd at noon and well heeled locals in the evening. Aside from the prompt good-humoured service and reasonable prices, what many people come here for is the leg of lamb, which is carved from the bone tableside and served with stewed lingots or white beans. You're welcome to ask for a second or, improbably, a third serving, too, but it's better to build a more moderate feast by starting with some oysters, they offer bivalves from three of the best producers in France, Pascal Magné, Gillardeau and Joël Dupuch. There are also many other choices on the menu, of course, including lobster stuffed ravioli or duck foie gras to start, and then grilled sole or a filet with sauce Béarnaise. Finish up with the crepes Suzette, flambéed en salle too, and note that this engaging address is open daily for lunch and dinner, with last orders in the eveing at 11 pm - A L

The temple of lamb and seafood
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